No matter your hair type, overuse of flat irons, hair dryers, and curling irons can lead to serious heat damage—but those with natural hair that tends to be on the more brittle side have to be especially careful. “If your main goal is growth, I would recommend laying off any heat styling and chemical processing,” says Kee. “Anytime you're manipulating your hair, especially via heat, you're inevitably causing some damage and drying the strands out, which leads to breakage.”

It helps to use a heat protectant such as a hair oil if you need to use a hot tool. Keep the temperature low and never go over the same spot twice. Still, if hair growth is what you’re after and you’re really in it for the long haul, you’re better off avoiding heat altogether.

The benefits of deep conditioner cannot be overstated. “Keeping the hair well-moisturized means it will stay healthier longer and will help to prevent breakage caused from drying out,” explains Kee. “I like using a hair mask that's also keratin-infused to help keep the hair as healthy as possible. The proteins mimic the proteins found naturally in the strands, so it can help fill in any gaps from existing damage.”

Use a deep conditioner weekly with a plastic cap in the shower or under a hair dryer. Or, if you’re able to head to the salon, give your hair an extra boost of hydration with a steam treatment. Either way, deep conditioning is key to avoiding breakage and keeping your coils tangle-free.

It might seem counterproductive to get a haircut when you’re trying to grow out your hairstyle, but getting regular trims is a big part of healthy hair. “If you are prone to split ends, it's best to get those trimmed off regularly while you're trying to grow your hair out,” says Kee. “Leaving your split ends is only going to cause more damage, making it harder to achieve more length.”

Chat with your hairstylist and make sure they know you’re working on growing out your natural hair. Don’t worry: You likely won’t have to do a big chop, as your stylist can recommend the amount of damage that should be removed without losing too much length. We know, it’s hard not to get attached to our hair length, but try not to hold onto those split ends for too long—they’ll only contribute to breakage in the long run.

You know how important moisturizing is to healthy hair. The LOC method is a great way to ensure that the styling products you’re using are helping keep strands hydrated. LOC is a mnemonic to help you remember the order of styling products: liquid, oil, and then cream. “It’s great for those who have high porosity who are trying to maintain as much moisture as possible, which as you know is essential for improving hair growth,” says Kee. “The LOC method is a great way to seal that moisture in and keep your strands nourished and hydrated.”

Whether you use coconut oil, avocado oil, shea butter, or numerous other styling products, curly hair and coily strands that have trouble retaining moisture will benefit from this popular method.

“Protective styles are just what they sound like: a great way to give your hair a break from all the manipulation, styling, and products,” explains Kee. “Protective styles can be a great way to give your hair a minute to breathe while you're growing it out. Just be sure to keep the hair and scalp well-moisturized while it's in a protective style.” She means it, too. It’s important that you don’t put your hair into a killer protective style just to forget to maintain it. Make sure those baby hairs are moisturized!

A good protective style should protect your hair, of course, but it should also help you maintain a healthy scalp with oils and hydrating butter. Whether you’re rocking bantu knots, braids, short twists, cornrows, or a simple high bun, keeping your hair in one style will help minimize breakage.

Kee loves using Jamaican black castor oil on both her and her clients’ hair. “This super conditioning ingredient has been hailed as great for hair growth for many years,” she says. “I love using it anytime I'm wearing my hair in a protective style or trying to grow my hair. You can buy it on its own or look for products formulated with it.”

Not only does Jamaican black castor oil promote healthy and faster hair growth, its fans also swear it helps prevent hair breakage, dandruff, eczema, and even a dry, itchy scalp. Keep some on hand to help keep your protective style hydrated.

A cotton towel might be fine for your body, but it can strip the moisture out of your hair. Skip the regular towels altogether when it comes to your natural hair. Instead, use a microfiber towel (sold at many retailers or beauty supply stores) or even an old T-shirt to help reduce frizz and help minimize breakage. Microfiber helps absorb moisture without damaging the hair cuticle, which can lead to more flyaways and, eventually, split ends.

It might sound a little extra at first, but using a silk pillowcase or wrapping your hair in a satin scarf is essential for natural hair. Cotton fibers from your regular ’ol pillowcases can rub against your hair while you sleep, causing friction and damaging hair cuticles further. You’ll be amazed at how a silk pillowcase and scarf can minimize breakage, split ends, frizz, and even the dreaded bedhead. “It's important to wrap your hair away at night in a silk scarf or wrap, especially if you're trying to grow your hair out,” agrees Kee. “Unlike cotton, hair slides on silk without friction, so it's much less damaging on the hair. It also helps the hair retain its moisture.” Up next? Long, healthy hair you’ll want to show off.

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