Why Fermented Oils Are the Biggest New-But-Old Thing in Skincare

So, What Are Fermented Oils?

First, a brief science lesson. The process of fermentation happens when a microorganism such as yeast (which, for the record, is a fungi) or bacteria is introduced to an ingredient, without the presence of oxygen, in order to break it down over time. The fermentation process itself is thousands of years old, and is the reason we have products such as yogurt, kombucha, and even wine. (Thank you, fermentation.) But fermented ingredients have both internal and topical benefits. For instance, It’s how ingredients like lactic acid and probiotics are sourced—and more and more beauty brands are introducing new products showcasing fermented oils.

But why fermented oil, as opposed to any other facial oil, you ask? It comes down to how the oil is absorbed into the skin. “Fermentation helps break down oil into smaller molecules, which makes it more easily absorbed than non-fermented oils,” explains Dr. Lancer. Oils that are fermented for skincare include olive oil, soybean oil, and others. Why? “Oils that are fermented are often vegetable oils,” explains the dermatologist.

What Are the Benefits of Fermented Oils in Skincare?

Before you change up your entire skincare routine, it’s important to know what fermented skincare products can do. Here’s a breakdown, courtesy of Dr. Lancer.

They can be more effective.

Because the active ingredients are better absorbed, they bring their benefits into the deeper layers of the skin. “These oils are able to penetrate the skin at a deeper level, allowing for better absorption as well as antioxidant benefits,” says Dr. Lancer. “This helps to achieve a silkier complexion.”

They’re moisturizing.

These are oils we’re talking about, after all. And boosting the efficacy of their benefits includes keeping the skin barrier hydrated and glowing. 

They’re generally safe for acne-prone skin.

“Fermented oil products are recommended for all skin types,” says Dr. Lancer, who adds that “They are often used for those with inflammatory conditions such as acne because they contain anti-inflammatory benefits.”

And sensitive skin, too.

“These products can be beneficial for sensitive complexions as they can calm the skin, although they are not necessarily created for sensitive skin,” explains the derm.

They act as natural preservatives.

Just as fermenting helps food products last longer, it does the same for your skincare by preventing the growth of bacteria. If you tend to look for paraben-free ingredient lists, these products might be a good alternative.

They support our skin’s microbiome. Recent research shows that fermented oils support biodiversity in our skin cells, which may lead to “healthier” and “younger”-looking skin. 

The Best Fermented Oil Skincare Products to Try

1. LANCER Omega Hydrating Oil

Dr. Lancer’s own skincare brand features a facial oil formulated with 10% ferment complex—but we’ll let him elaborate. “This nourishing blend of fermented oils including argan, olive, shiunko, licorice, turmeric, and jojoba helps lock in moisture, softening the look of fine lines and leaving the skin with a dewy glow.”

2. MARA Algae Retinol Face Oil

If you’re looking for anti-aging benefits, look no further than this formulation. Not only does this face oil contain retinol algae (which is rich with amino acids), it’s also made with fermented green tea for even more antioxidant power. Apply nightly to soften the look of wrinkles and wake up to an otherworldly glow.

3. INNISFREE Firming Energy Essence

Fermentation is particularly popular in Korean culture, so it’s no wonder fermented skincare ingredients are in some of our favorite K-Beauty products. Case in point: This bouncy essence, made with both antioxidant-rich fermented soybean oil and extract from Jeju soybeans, which is brightening, hydrating, and helps boost elasticity.

4. NATURIUM Fermented Camellia Creamy Cleansing Oil 

This gentle cleanser removes makeup, sunscreen, and more without stripping moisture away from dry skin. Made with fermented camellia oil, camellia extract, and other nourishing oils, it melts away impurities and feels creamy and nourishing on skin.

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