How to Cover Melasma With Makeup Like a Pro in 4 Simple Steps



Brittany Leitner


Photo by dikushin / Getty Images
Melasma can be caused by a number of different things, including hormone fluctuations, so even if you’ve been sticking to your skincare routine religiously, it can still sprout up—it’s just all part of life. Any type of hyperpigmentation—from dark spots to age spots and dark circles—is nothing to be ashamed of. But if you want to cover melasma, or any type of dark patches, that’s a whole different story, and we’ve got you covered (literally!). The good news is, it’s possible to color correct and apply makeup over melasma to neutralize it visually. There are also a number of serums that target melasma and skin discoloration, so make sure to check out our recs below if you want to add something new into your skincare routine.
Melasma is characterized by dark patches (which sometimes look like an area full of freckles), most often on the cheeks, forehead, chin, and on the upper lip. You’ll want to see a board-certified dermatologist to get an accurate diagnosis and advice on how to even your skin tone. It can often include adding vitamin C and other brightening skincare products to your skincare routine.
In addition to treating melasma, there may be times you might want to cover it up—so we enlisted LA-based makeup artist Tara Dowburd to help.
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MEET THE EXPERT
Tara Dowburd is an LA-based makeup artist and founder of Make-Up Therapy.
How to Cover Melasma With Makeup
1. Prep With Skincare
“Your skincare prep is always key, regardless of your skin type, but especially when you’re going to be using a heavier foundation for more coverage,” Dowburd says. She recommends starting your daily skincare routine by applying a vitamin C serum, like the CLARA'S NEW YORK Brightening Vitamin C Facial Serum. Then comes a hydrating moisturizer (such as one with hyaluronic acid) and a blurring/smoothing primer. Finally, don’t forget your SPF. Sunscreen protects your skin, but it also helps keep hyperpigmentation from getting darker.
2. Know Your Skin Type
Before you choose your foundation, it’s important to know which type to use, which all depends on your skin type.
“If you have oily skin, it’s best to use a brush with a full-coverage foundation powder,” Dowburd says. IIf you have dry skin, it’s best to use a dense stippling blending brush to apply a full-coverage cream or liquid foundation, and then set it with a dusting of foundation powder or setting powder.”
3. Apply Color Corrector
“Before applying foundation, I recommend using a color correcting, full-coverage concealer on the specific areas you want to neutralize,” Dowburd says. “For example if you have a medium-to-dark skin tone, you want to use a deep orange or red-tone color correcting concealer, and if you have light-to-medium skin tone, you want to use a pinky peach tone.”
4. Apply Full-Coverage Foundation
Dowburd says the best foundation for covering melasma is one that’s buildable to full coverage with a yellow-ish base. A buildable formula is helpful so you can apply more product on the areas you want to cover up.
How do you know if a foundation is full coverage? It will say so on the packaging! We’re huge fans of the KVD BEAUTY Good Apple Full-Coverage Transfer-Proof Serum Foundation, which has a natural finish and feels as light as a serum on the skin. We also love the LAURA GELLER Double Take Baked Full Coverage Foundation, which is long-wearing with more of a matte finish.
The Best Makeup for Covering Melasma
1. DERMABLEND Cover Care Full-Coverage Concealer


Courtesy of DERMABLEND
Dowburd recommends using this hydrating full-coverage concealer on top of a color corrector. This one is a non-comedogenic formula, dermatologist-tested for sensitive skin, and even waterproof and transfer-resistant. It’s one of the best concealers for all skin types (thanks to that natural matte finish) that will never leave skin looking cakey.
2. ESTÉE LAUDER Double Wear Stay-in-Place Matte Powder Foundation


Courtesy of ESTÉE LAUDER
If you have oily skin, Dowburd recommends applying this matte powder foundation with a powder foundation brush, like the one in the REAL PERFECTION Kabuki Brush Foundation Brush Sponge 3-Piece Set, which has everything you need to get a full-coverage look.
3. IT COSMETICS Your Skin But Better CC+ Cream with SPF 50+


Courtesy of IT COSMETICS
“CC” literally stands for “color correcting,” so it makes sense why Dowburd would recommend this full-coverage foundation for those with dry skin. It’s infused with peptides, niacin, algae, vitamins, hyaluronic acid, hydrolyzed collagen, and antioxidants for max brightening power while you wear it. “Use a dense stippling blender brush to apply,” adds Dowburd. Personally, we love the F.A.R.A.H Flat Foundation Brush 615F.
4. MAKE UP FOR EVER Ultra HD Underpainting Color Correcting Palette


Courtesy of MAKE UP FOR EVER
Dowburd likes MAKE UP FOREVER’s full-coverage concealers. This color-correcting palette makes it so easy to neutralize darkness on any skin tone. Choose from Very Light, Light, Medium, and Tan and get four color-correcting cream concealers perfect for covering hyperpigmentation anywhere on the face and body.
5. TARTE™ Smooth Operator Amazonian Clay Finishing Powder


Courtesy of TARTE™
Anyone can use setting powder, but Dowburd recommends those using a liquid or cream foundation to dust a light coating of powder onto the skin, especially around areas where you added more foundation or color corrector. This will help ensure the product lasts all day and doesn’t transfer onto your clothes. Apply it with a fluffy powder brush, such as the REALHER "Love What You Do" Vegan Brush (Powder).
Final Thoughts
When trying to cover up any sort of skin condition with makeup, the golden rule, according to makeup artists, is to use a color corrector. This is true for covering acne scars, under-eye circles, and yes, even melasma. Make sure to neutralize any uneven color before applying the full-coverage foundation of your choice.
The IPSY Shop has color neutralizers and different types of full-coverage foundations for your needs and desired finish. There are also dark spot correctors and serums available to incorporate into your skincare routine so you can tackle the issue at night when you’re not wearing makeup or foundation.
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