Get to Know Polyglutamic Acid, the Hydrating Ingredient Taking Over Right Now

When we think about hydrating ingredients, acids aren’t always the first thing to come to mind. Of course, the popularity of hyaluronic acid, with its ability to hold 1000 times its weight in water and all, changed all that. But a new ingredient, polyglutamic acid—PGA for short—has entered the scene. And it’s appearing in an increasing number of hydrating skincare products. We checked in with dermatologist Karan Lal, MD, to find out more about this popular ingredient—plus, we’re sharing five PGA-infused products worth getting your hands on now.

About the Expert:

Karan Lal, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist at Schweiger Dermatology Group in Hillsborough, New Jersey.

Quick Question: What Is Polyglutamic Acid?

Despite its long name, you’ll likely be hearing more and more about this powerhouse skincare ingredient. “Polyglutamic acid is the new humectant on the block,” says Dr. Lal. And like other humectants (i.e. hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and even sugar), it works by attracting water molecules to the skin’s surface. The name itself also helps explain what it is—”poly” means many, denoting that it’s a compound of multiple glutamic acids. Therefore, says the derm, PGA “is a larger molecule [than similar ingredients], thus it sits on top of your skin and soaks up water.”

What Are the Benefits of Polyglutamic Acid?

Three words: hydration, hydration, hydration. “It’s a phenomenal moisturizer and it gives you dewy skin,” explains Dr. Lal. In addition to being great for dry and dehydrated skin, it’s also a great addition to anti-aging products. Look for it in everything from moisturizers to serums to eye creams, though it’s especially effective in water-soluble formulations, for obvious reasons. “Because it hydrates the top of the skin, it can help soften fine lines after you apply it,” says the derm, adding that “This means it’s great as a base before applying makeup.” 

Even better, polyglutamic acid has no known side effects, and can be used by pretty much everyone. “PGA is great for all skin types and skin colors,” says the derm. “It’s especially great for patients with facial eczema who feel like they can’t get enough moisturizer on their face.” Plus, because PGA is non-irritating it plays well with other active ingredients. “Because it’s not an exfoliating acid it can be used with all of your other skincare products,” reassures Dr. Lal.

How Is Polyglutamic Acid Different From Hyaluronic Acid?

Hydrating? Check. Plumping? Check. Non-irritating? Check. If PGA sounds similar to hyaluronic acid, it’s because it is. “Similar to hyaluronic acid, it soaks up a lot of water which makes it a great hydrating agent,” explains Dr. Lal. The main differences are that hyaluronic acid is naturally found in our skin, whereas polyglutamic acid isn’t (it’s sourced from Japanese fermented soybeans called natto). Also, the molecule is much larger. “Polyglutamic acid retains four times more moisture than hyaluronic acid,” says the expert. That said, the two ingredients are often seen together on labels to double up on hydration benefits.

The Best Polyglutamic Products to Try Now