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Scalp Buildup: What Is It & How Do You Avoid It? We Asked the Experts!

By Dahvi Shira

Published on Apr 7, 2023

Photo of a model's head showing an itchy scalp on a yellow background Mobile

Photo of a model's head showing an itchy scalp on a yellow background Desktop

Thanks to TikTok (#scalpcare has been hashtagged 1 billion times) and the new spread of education among hair professionals, hair care consumers finally understand that healthy hair starts with the scalp. Until recently, we didn’t register the concept of our scalp being an extension of our skin, and that it must be tended to as such—regardless of hair type. We were always instructed to care for damaged hair and breakage at our ends, while ignoring the fact that our ends are dead and what we really need to nurture are the fresh strands poking out of our follicles. Not to mention, itchy dandruff eczema and scalp buildup don’t originate at the ends.

But now that the importance of scalp care is widespread, just how do you maintain it and avoid said scalp buildup? How do you know if you’re putting your scalp at risk? And how much (if any) scalp exfoliation is required to keep problems at bay? If you have an oily scalp, itchy scalp, dry scalp, flaky scalp, scalp psoriasis, or other skin condition of the head, it means your scalp is compromised and needs more than just a standard hair wash. It could mean something simple as too many non-clarified hair care products accumulated over time, or it could mean something more serious.

To get to the bottom of scalp buildup, we reached out to nurse practitioner and scalp care professional, Lisa Huynh, along with Lori Huitron, founder of HUI HUI ESSENTIALS scalp care products. Keep reading because their easy tips and causes of scalp buildup could save you a trip to the dermatologist, and leave you with a healthy scalp.

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MEET THE EXPERT

Lori Huitron is a decades-long, Los Angeles-based hairstylist and founder of Hui Hui Essentials scalp products. The brand recently partnered with LA’s Hotel Figueroa as part of its Sleep Tourism program, to educate guests on wonders you can do for your scalp.

Lisa Huynh is a nurse practitioner and scalp care professional, known for her HydraFacial Keravive scalp treatment at NakedMD in Newport Beach, CA.

What Is Scalp Buildup?

Scalp buildup is just as it sounds: “It’s an accumulation of substances on the scalp that can compromise your hair and scalp health,” Huynh says. “It can be many things, including sweat, dirt, oils, impurities, excess hair product, and more.”

Will I Lose My Hair If I Have Scalp Buildup?

The first thing to note, as Huitron points out, is, “your scalp is a living organism that needs to breathe.” We often forget that the scalp is an extension of your skin, so we need to treat it as such. Would you leave layers of product on your face for days without washing or exfoliating? Gross, right? The same should be said for your scalp.

“If left untreated, scalp buildup can result in many things, including clogged hair follicles, low scalp hydration, and dead skin congestion.” Huynh explains. “When hair follicles are clogged with oil, sweat, impurities and product, they become congested and can cause harmful and unfavorable conditions to your scalp such as infections and inflammation. These conditions can negatively affect hair growth and hair health, which can lead to hair loss.”

What Causes Scalp Buildup?

There are internal and external factors that cause scalp buildup. Sweat, sebum, dead cells, and natural oils (or an overactive sebaceous gland) are natural causes of buildup. Meanwhile, shampoo, conditioner, styling products, and leave-in hair treatments are external factors that play into this issue. Regardless of how the buildup accumulates, “the most simple and obvious” reason it doesn’t go away is lack of regular shampoo and conditioning, according to Huitron.

How Do I Get Rid of Scalp Buildup?

Dealing with scalp buildup? Rest assured you can get rid of it. Huitron suggests applying a zero-chemical scalp oil (she recommends either the day or night HUI HUI ESSENTIALS Scalp Rescue). “Oils attach to oils, so this is a gentle way to nourish your epidermis without compromising the integrity of your hair or scalp,” she explains. “Combining scalp oil with a scalp brush and manually exfoliating is my favorite way to remove build-up.” Huitron’s favorites are the ROXIE JANE HUNT and MASON PEARSON brushes.

Huynh also recommends a medical-grade scalp treatment. She specializes in the HYDRAFACIAL Keravive, an extension of the traditional HYDRAFACIAL applied to the face. This patented technology cleanses, exfoliates, hydrates, and nourishes the scalp, promoting its health and therefore boosting hair growth. It involves a special Keravive Peptide Complex and HYDRAFACIAL vacuum technology that physically removes debris and dead skin cells. Then, much like hyaluronic acid is applied to the face, it’s applied to the scalp to hydrate, nourish, and protect it from environmental damage. The treatment concludes with a stimulating solution applied to promote hair growth, enhance circulation, and improve hair follicle function. And much like its counterpart, it’s relatively painless, takes around 30 minutes to complete, and requires no downtime. While Huynh offers this service at her NakedMD med spa in Newport Beach, CA, you can find it at a number of med spas all over the country.

How Do I Make Sure Scalp Buildup Doesn’t Affect Me?

In addition to shampooing regularly, (and utilizing clarifying shampoo when you’ve applied a lot of product or missed a few wash days), Huynh recommends a scalp treatment every 4-6 months. Back to the concept of your scalp being an extension of your skin, think of these scalp treatments the way you think of facial maintenance. While the upkeep is much less with the scalp, you still want to be mindful of caring for this part of your body.

Ultimately, however, preventing scalp buildup isn’t too complicated. Huynh advises simple tasks like regularly brushing your hair and using a scalp massager to break up any potential buildup. To Huynh’s point, Huitron says before each wash, manually exfoliate your scalp. Then apply your favorite scalp care product to provide moisture and nourishment. Leave the treatment on anywhere from 30 minutes to eight hours before you wash.

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