The New Sunscreen Ingredient That Could Change Everything



Dahvi Shira


Photo by Plume Creative/Getty Images
If you’re new to the fact that sunscreen is technically considered a “drug” under FDA regulations, you’re not alone. Because it’s been at least two decades since a new active ingredient has been approved in sunscreen, we hadn’t really given it much thought. But as of earlier this month, the FDA cleared BEMT (bemotrizinol) for use in U.S. sunscreens to protect against UV rays, with the change taking effect this summer and products expected to hit shelves later this year.
“The FDA classifies sunscreens as drugs due to the fact that active ingredients within the products are designed to prevent sunburn, reduce skin cancer risk, and slow premature aging,” our expert Asha Patel Shah, MD, explains further. “Some countries classify sunscreens as cosmetics versus drugs, which means they’re regulated differently and require very different approval processes. This is the reason that consumers will often find different products available in different markets.”
To better understand the new ingredient, along with suncare regulations, keep reading for what else Dr. Shah has to say.
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MEET THE EXPERT
Asha Patel Shah, MD, MBA, FAAD, is the Head of Medical Affairs, North America, Skin Health & Baby at Kenvue (NEUTROGENA, AVEENO, CLEAN & CLEAR, and OGX).
Why BEMT's FDA Approval Matters
According to Dr. Shah, one of the initiatives that has been taken by the Office of Nonprescription Drugs at FDA is to advance sunscreen innovation.
“The FDA hasn’t approved any new sunscreen filters since the 1990s,” the expert says. “Therefore, the approval of this active ingredient shows how the FDA recognizes the public health benefits of sunscreen use in lowering the incidence of some preventable cancers in the United States.”
Because BEMT has different physicochemical properties than previously approved U.S. UV filters, formulators have greater flexibility.
“They can create new elegant and lightweight sunscreen textures,” Dr. Shah explains. “BEMT also provides strong UVA absorbance, allowing formulators to achieve high sun protection efficacy while being able to rebalance levels of certain ingredients like oils … Sunscreen wearability is critical to consistent application and realizing the full protective benefits of sunscreen.”
This is especially relevant to current beauty trends, with the immense rise of K-Beauty in the U.S., and the influence of advanced Korean and Australian sunscreen formulas.
How to Use BEMT Sunscreen
Because of BEMT’s high solubility in cosmetic emollients, superior water resistance is supported, which leads to long-lasting broad-spectrum sun protection. Dr. Shah says, “Its versatile compatibility also enables innovative formulations that consumers will love and adopt.”
She goes on to say it’s important to emphasize that BEMT “only works when incorporated into a formulated product with other UV filter ingredients. The final skin feel ultimately depends on the complete formula.”
Sunscreen filters aren’t one-size-fits-all, and your skin and lifestyle must be taken into account when it comes to what works best for you.
“This is why access to multiple filters is so important, and why bringing BEMT to the U.S. is a significant opportunity,” Dr. Shah explains.
Can BEMT Help Protect Against Skin Cancer?
As we’ve always maintained, the only 100% foolproof way to avoid sun damage or skin cancer is by completely staying indoors and away from UV rays. And yes, this includes seemingly innocuous tasks like driving, running errands, and singing in the rain. Any time you’re exposed to UV rays (even when they appear to be blocked by clouds or overcast weather), you’re at risk for sun damage—regardless of what type of sunscreen or ingredient you use.
“Daily sun protection can prevent up to 80% of skin cancer cases,” Dr. Shah confirms, adding, “It can reduce the risk of recurrence for those previously diagnosed with skin cancer, and provide psychological reassurance by helping reduce anxiety about UV exposure.”
Final Thoughts
The introduction of BEMT (bemotrizinol) to the U.S. is an exciting development, seeing as there hasn’t been an approved sunscreen filter in at least two decades. In an era where the U.S. is constantly trying to keep up with other countries’ skincare routines and formulations (namely South Korea), this innovation is seemingly a step in the right direction when it comes to ease of use and efficacy.
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