Here’s How to Nail TikTok’s “Contrast Theory” Makeup Trend

What Is Contrast Makeup Theory?

You might have tried a nude lipstick that washed out your complexion, or noticed that blue eyeshadow tends to overpower your face—and according to the contrast makeup theory, that’s because those colors (and how heavily they were applied) didn’t align with your contrast level. The theory, created by French makeup artist Aliénor, implies that adding too much or not enough contrast can make your makeup accidentally disguise your features. 

To combat this, the theory encourages you to apply products according to how light or dark your skin, eye, and hair colors look in relation to one another. The result creates visual harmony between your features for an overall personalized and more flattering look. 

“There are three contrast options: low, medium, or high,” Gonzalez explains further. The easiest way to determine your contrast level is by looking at a black-and-white selfie, she says, or by using the official black-and-white filter on TikTok—created by Aliénor—that allows for side-to-side comparison. “I’m considered medium contrast, since my hair is darker but my skin is tan,” Gonzalez adds. Keep reading to figure out your own contrast level. 

Low Contrast

If the color of your skin and hair nearly match, you’re probably considered a low-contrast beauty. Gigi Hadid fits into this category since she has blonde hair and fair to light skin, while Adut Akech can also be considered low-contrast with her dark hair and deep skin. 

It’s recommended that those with low-contrast features avoid harsh colors, like burgundy lipstick or bright coral blush. Instead, it’s recommended to add subtle depth to features, which you can do by opting for nude shades (the LAURA GELLER Seasonless Staples Favorite Flowers Eyeshadow Palette has a bunch to choose from) that mirror your skin tone. Rather than applying a vibrant blush, choosing one that’s closer to your natural flush may be a better option for low-contrast makeup. The PLEY BEAUTY One Stop POP in First Hello is a rose shade we love that looks natural on the skin. 

Medium Contrast

The medium-contrast category is defined by light to medium skin and honey, golden, or caramel brown hair—any combination where the shade of your hair is slightly darker than your skin tone. Gonzalez falls into this group, as do celebrities like Daisy Edgar-Jones and Jessica Alba. Most redheads, like Jessica Chastain, are also considered medium-contrast. 

Ironically, Aliénor recommends creating a more natural makeup look by adding a bit of intensity. You can achieve that with a blush or lipstick that’s higher in pigmentation, while still opting for an eyeshadow that isn’t too much darker than your skin tone. (Need blush inspo? The SKONE COSMETICS Flushed & Flirtatious Blush Palette has you covered.) The key with medium-contrast makeup is to keep the features balanced, so if you’re opting for a soft, smoky eye, you’ll also want to add a touch of lipstick to keep your look even. 

High Contrast

As you might have guessed, features with the greatest shade disparity are considered high-contrast. If your skin leans fair, light, or medium with dark hair—think Anne Hathaway or Zoë Kravitz—you’re high-contrast, meaning your hair color is much darker than your skin tone. 

Here, the goal is to soften the contrast between features, rather than emphasize it further. Darker, more intense shades come in handy by softening the difference in color between the features. For high-contrast makeup, any product that will make your eyes, lips, or cheeks pop will do, including black eyeliner like the  DANESSA MYRICKS BEAUTY Linework Paintbrush Fluid Liquid Eyeliner, or a red lipstick like the ONE/SIZE Lip Snatcher Hydrating Liquid Lipstick and Lip Gloss Duo in O/S Red.

Final Thoughts

In the end, the contrast makeup theory is a helpful starting guide for what’s flattering to your features—but it’s not set in stone. Depending on the effect you want your makeup to have, you can always go against your contrast level if you want to. Gonzalez, for example, loves to incorporate colorful eyeliner into her look, although nude and brown shades are recommended for medium-contrast features. “It’s all about finding what you feel best in,” she says. “If you don’t feel confident in it, then it’s not the look for you.”