What It Really Takes to Get Healthier Hair

Step 1: Identify Your Hair Type and Hair Goals

Before you can embark on an effective hair journey, it’s crucial to identify your hair type. According to trichologist and hairstylist Jay Small, hair type is determined by the interaction of three primary biological characteristics: density, texture, and color.

“Density describes both the diameter of the individual hair fiber (fine, medium, or coarse), and the number of hair fibers produced per follicular unit,” Small explains. “While most follicles generate a single hair fiber, some follicles are capable of producing multiple fibers simultaneously. This phenomenon is known as pili multigemini and contributes to overall hair density and visual fullness.”

As for texture, the expert says this refers to “the geometric structure of the hair fiber, and is classified as straight, wavy, curly, or tightly coiled. Texture is primarily determined by the shape and orientation of the hair follicle within the scalp. Round, vertically oriented follicles produce straight hair fibers, while oval or flattened follicles, often positioned at an angle, produce curved or spiral hair fibers. The cross-sectional shape of the hair shaft and the asymmetric distribution of keratin within the cortex further influence curl pattern and wave formation.”

And lastly, “Color is determined by the type, concentration, and distribution of melanin pigments called eumelanin and pheomelanin,” he shares. “Darker hair contains higher levels of eumelanin, while lighter hair has reduced pigment density. Increased pigment concentration is often associated with greater light absorption and reflection, resulting in hair that appears smoother and glossier.”

Together, he says, “These structural and biochemical factors determine the hair’s behavior, durability, and maintenance requirements. A secondary but significant modifier is lifestyle, including mechanical stress (brushing, heat styling), chemical exposure (coloring, relaxing), and environmental factors such as ultraviolet radiation. Over time, these influences can alter the integrity of the cuticle and cortex, affecting how the hair ages, retains moisture, and responds to styling.”

And, of course, you must determine your hair’s key needs. Common hair goals include growth, more shine, increased volume, breakage repair, and frizz control.

Step 2: Understand Your Scalp Health

Before we get into caring for the scalp, let’s start with what exactly it is and how it operates. 

“The scalp is the biological interface that unites existing hair with future hair growth,” Small explains. “While the visible portion of the hair shaft above the scalp is biologically inactive and cannot be altered from within, the portion of the hair below the scalp remains biologically active and can be affected by changes in physiological function.”

Basically, “If you notice changes in your hair such as reduced vibrancy, thinning, or shifts in texture, using products that support future hair growth is the most effective way to maintain or improve your hair over time,” Small goes on to say. “Treating your scalp like a garden is one of the best ways to support continued, healthy hair growth. The scalp is more delicate than the skin on your face and must be treated with care to sustain optimal hair growth. Product ingredients, environmental stressors, and diet all play substantial roles in scalp health. On average, the scalp contains approximately 100,000 hair follicles, each functioning as a mini-organ.”

If you’re new on your scalp-care journey, we recommend the BRIOGEO HAIR CARE Scalp Revival Charcoal + Coconut Oil Micro-Exfoliating Shampoo Mini. This can be applied solo or serve as a clarifying first shampoo step to be followed by a more traditional shampoo. This first step will help rid product build-up and environmental gunk from your hair to help ensure other products work effectively and the scalp isn’t clogged.

Tips to Maintaining a Healthy Scalp

Small’s pro tips to keeping your scalp intact operate similarly to how you’d care for your general skin. He suggests the following:

1. Prioritize clean, high-quality ingredients

Do not skimp when it comes to your scalp. Do proper research, invest in higher-end products (if they’re known to be effective), and get tips from the pros.

2. Pay attention to oil production and any flaking

If you notice changes in your scalp or experience any sensitivities, it’s a sign you need to switch-up your scalp care. Whether that means implementing greater scalp care or changing up your shampoo or care products, you’ll want to speak to a professional to decide. 

3. Protect your scalp from UV exposure the same way you protect your face 

Because your scalp is an extension of your skin, you want to apply sunscreen the way you would your face (except for your scalp, think powder or spray formulas, not creams or lotions).

How to Tell If Your Scalp Is Dry, Oily, or Unbalanced

“Our scalps are prone to change due to shifts in diet, medication, hormones, stress, and environmental factors,” Small shares. “When determining your scalp type, it’s important to assess whether your hair becomes overly oily, if your scalp feels itchy or irritated, and how often you are washing your hair and with what products.”

He goes on to say, “Hair density and texture play a significant role in how much oil the scalp produces and how that oil is distributed along the hair shaft. For those with medium density and straight hair, washing every two to three days typically keeps the scalp and hair feeling balanced. Finer hair types may require washing every one to two days, while thicker or coarser hair types can often go two to four days between washes. If you identify with one of these hair densities but feel that your scalp needs to be cleansed sooner than recommended or, conversely, feels over-cleansed and dry, this is a helpful indicator that your routine may need adjustment.”

What Are Signs of Buildup or Irritation?

“Signs of scalp buildup are often felt before they are seen,” Small says. “The most common form of buildup is a combination of sebum, the natural oil secreted by the body and shed skin cells from the scalp. Over time, these two elements bind together and adhere to the scalp’s surface. This environment can encourage the overgrowth of a naturally occurring yeast called Malassezia, which may lead to itching or irritation.”

Lastly, “As irritation increases, scratching can cause visible flaking,” he says. “This flaking is often mistaken for a dry scalp and incorrectly treated by washing less. In reality, it’s more commonly the result of excess oil and buildup that needs to be properly removed through cleansing or gentle exfoliation. Sebum acts like a glue, causing skin cells and debris to cling to the scalp rather than shed naturally.”

As we touched on earlier, we’re personally big fans of gentle exfoliants and clarifying routines to reset the scalp. Another product we stand by for this step is the R+CO Crystal Halo Balancing Scalp Scrub + Shampoo. If your hair feels deeply in distress, the EVA NYC Therapy Session Hair Mask is a good place to start to get you on the road to repair. 

Step 3: How to Build a Hair Health Routine

1. Maintain a Healthy Lifestyle

Believe it or not, your hair health routine doesn’t begin in the bathroom—it begins in the kitchen.

“Nutrition and sleep quality have a profound impact on cellular activity, including the cells responsible for hair growth and pigmentation,” Small shares. “Hair density, length, and color are all influenced by what you consume and how well your body is able to rest and recover.”

2. Cleanse Properly 

Once in the shower, Small says the focus should shift to scalp health because the scalp is the foundation for healthy hair growth. 

“I recommend that everyone use a clean shampoo formulated with active scalp-supporting ingredients, along with a nonabrasive scalp exfoliant,” he shares. “Many people assume the scalp is thicker and more resilient than facial skin, but in reality, the scalp can age up to six times faster.”

He recommends the AREY Wash Shampoo, which is formulated with proactive ingredients that cleanse effectively while nourishing the scalp at the same time. “Washing frequency should be determined by your individual scalp and hair characteristics, including oil production, density, and texture,” he says.

A couple of shampoos we also love are the LIVING PROOF Perfect Hair Day Shampoo Mini, and the ODACITÉ Soap Free Shampoo Bar 552M. Both are great for on-the-go refreshes.

Small also notes that exfoliation is often misunderstood or overlooked in scalp care, yet it’s one of the most important steps in maintaining a balanced scalp microbiome. 

3. Condition With Intention

As we can tell you firsthand, conditioner isn’t something you apply just to apply. While it’s useful to help enforce shiny, nourished-looking strands, applying too much can cause your hair to look greasy. And especially when it comes to the scalp, steer clear. We recommend applying conditioner to the ends, where hair is the driest, unless you have dry hair throughout. Our personal pick? The IGK HAIR Extra Love Volume Hair Conditioner, which will also add a little oomph to your look. 

4. Use Weekly Mask or Bond Repair

Hair masks come in all different forms and consistencies, for all different hair types. Whether you have fine or thick hair, or struggle with dryness or oiliness, there’s a mask for you. They can add moisture or enhance curls, or they can strengthen or repair. Implementing this step into your routine once a week offers targeted attention you wouldn’t necessarily get from a standalone shampoo or conditioner. 

Need a rec? We swear by the BRIOGEO HAIR CARE Superfood Passionfruit + Acai Mask. It’s nutrient-packed, lightweight, and designed to protect and hydrate. 

5. Apply Leave-In Support

Whether it’s a conditioner or serum, applying a leave-in ensures your hair is getting ’round-the-clock care. Leave-in products are designed to last overnight in your strands without weighing them down. Small is a big fan of scalp serums in particular.

“Look for a formula with active ingredients designed to address your primary concern, whether that’s slowing graying, improving density, or reducing shedding,” he says. “Beyond follicle support, a well-formulated serum can also help regulate oil production and maintain scalp hydration.” 

We’re personally huge fans of the SLEEK'E Silk'e Leave In Conditioner, thanks to its ability to hydrate, fight frizz, and repair all at once. 

6. Never Forget Heat Protectant

It’s an easy step to skip, but doing so has a harsh effect on your tresses. In addition to providing protection from hot tools, heat protectant helps shield your hair from UV damage. If you want to avoid dry, brittle, split strands, this is your best bet. As for what we advise? The OLAPLEX Volumizing Blow Dry Mist, of course! It’s a jack-of-all-trades must that does the job in a few quick spritzes. 

Step 4: Employ the Best Breakage Prevention Tips

1. Prioritize Scalp Health

When you focus on scalp care, the hair that grows in is better supported and often stronger over time. As Small shares, scalp care isn’t an overnight fix, but “many of my split-ends clients notice this is the result of hair that was grown without sufficient strength to withstand ongoing styling, tension, and environmental stress.”

2. Be Mindful of Hair Color and Bleach

While changing your hair color can be exciting, repeated color or bleach services, especially for those who prefer having longer hair, can lead to gradual weakening and breakage. 

“Hair color relies on a developer to open the cuticle (the outer layer of the hair) to either remove pigment (bleaching) or deposit color molecules,” Small says. “The more frequently the cuticle is opened, the more vulnerable and brittle the hair fiber can become over time.”

If you want to experiment with color but don’t want to risk severe damage, the PAUL MITCHELL Clean Beauty Color Depositing Treatments are a good bet. The colors are temporary and won’t penetrate your strands the way a bleach or traditional hair dye would. 

3. Trim Ends Regularly

Small says there are two primary types of breakage: mid-shaft breakage caused by overstretching, and split ends—which splinter upward from the ends of the hair. 

“Split ends are very real, and a simple trim can prevent them from traveling further up the strand,” he says, offering a pro tip. “If you’re concerned about losing too much length, ask for a dry haircut. Washing, drying, and cutting afterward allows both you and your stylist to see exactly what needs to be removed—something that’s often harder to assess on wet hair.”

4. Be Mindful of Fabric That Touches Your Hair

Microfiber towels and silk pillowcases don’t just sound fancy; they’re popular for a reason. The towels, for example, are recommended for plopping hair, and they won’t tug at your strands. And silk pillowcases have been known to help prevent frizz and tangles. They also have known overnight skincare benefits. 

5. Avoid Heat-Styling When Possible

Thanks to the wealth of knowledge available at your fingertips on TikTok, we’ve learned that there are so many ways to style hair that don’t involve heat. From sock curls to wet braids to heatless hair curlers and more, save those hot tools for urgent times. And didn’t you know? Air-drying is so in. 

Step 5: The Best Nutrition & Lifestyle Tips to Support Hair Health

As Small mentioned above, healthy hair is largely influenced by what you do (and do not) consume. 

“Hair is a continuously growing tissue that requires adequate fuel to produce strands that are strong, well-pigmented, and able to grow at a healthy rate,” he says. “Without proper nutritional support, the body will prioritize vital organs over hair production, which can result in slower growth, reduced density, or changes in color and texture.”

Even individuals who eat a balanced diet and take a general multivitamin may benefit from adding a targeted hair health supplement to their daily routine. As a trichologist, he stands by his AREY Not Today, Grey products, which combine nine ingredients to support healthy hair growth, along with four targeted ingredients to help maintain natural hair color. 

Lifestyle factors are equally important, and while no one is perfect, understanding which habits have the greatest impact on your hair health helps set you up to make smarter choices.

• Sleep 

Sleep has always been known to play a critical role in hair growth and repair. 

“During rest, the body shifts into regenerative mode, producing hair more efficiently while cortisol (the stress hormone associated with “fight or flight”) levels are reduced,” our expert explains. “Chronic sleep deprivation can disrupt the hair growth cycle and contribute to shedding and thinning over time.”

• Smoking, excessive alcohol consumption, and processed food diets 

“These can each interfere with normal cellular function,” Small shares. “These habits increase oxidative stress and inflammation, diverting nutrients away from hair follicles and impairing their ability to function optimally.”

• UV exposure 

“This affects both current hair and future growth,” he adds. “Ultraviolet radiation creates oxidative stress that can degrade the hair fiber, fade hair color, and compromise scalp health. Prolonged UV exposure can also weaken the follicular environment, impacting the quality of hair produced over time.”

Step 6: Timelines: What Results to Expect and When

According to Small, changes in hair texture, density, and color are influenced by two primary factors: the initial health of the scalp (including levels of stress and nutrient availability) and the rate at which hair grows.

On average, hair grows approximately half an inch per month, which means, “For many people with shoulder-length hair or longer, the hair they see today may be two-and-a-half to three years old,” Small shares. “Because of this, patience is essential when starting a new scalp-care routine. Improvements in hair quality must be evaluated at the point of new growth, not along the existing lengths of hair.”

While visible changes in hair texture, density, and color take time, improvements in scalp health typically occur much sooner. 

“Within two to four weeks, many people notice reduced irritation, flaking, or oil production,” the pro explains. “These early changes are important indicators that the scalp environment is becoming more balanced and better equipped to support healthy hair growth.”

As with body goals, consistency is the key factor in achieving long-term results with hair health.

“A stable, well-nourished scalp sets the foundation for stronger, healthier hair over time,” Small says. “This allows the benefits of your routine to compound as new hair continues to grow.”

Final Thoughts

If your hair is coming from a place of severe color or heat damage, or if you generally have trouble growing your strands, it may seem like no hope is in sight. But as our expert points out, making simple lifestyle changes, along with giving your hair the TLC it deserves, can make a huge difference. Hair health starts in two places: the scalp and the kitchen—so once you get those things in order, you’re on your way to luscious hair. If you need a hand with picking the best hair products for your hair type and concerns, look no further than the IPSY Shop.