What Is a Structured Gel Manicure?

Like its name, a structured gel manicure focuses on defining the shape, look, and durability of your nails. It helps to reinforce your natural nail with builder gel and it also protects them from breakage. Honestly, it’s ideal if you’re a nail biter, have short nails, or fragile nails so you can build more of a shape and durability overtime.

“A structured gel mani can be used with multiple products. You can use hard gel, soft gel or builder gel,” says manicurist Christine Doan. She details that each type of gel has a different viscosity and wear time, noting hard gel needs to be filed off which she doesn’t like to recommend or use on her clients.

“Structured gel manicures basically give you the illusion of a stronger nail bed that has that curved, almost C shape to it. The curve from the side profile, structurally makes your nail stronger. There is more strength towards your nail bed and if you tap it on something it is less prone to breakage,” she adds.

Structured Gel Manicure vs. Acrylic Nails

Before talking with Christine, we couldn’t explain the difference. Both gel nails and acrylic nails are inherently different in how they look, feel, and last. But what’s the difference between a structured gel manicure and acrylic nails? Both are hard, but they still require different products.

“Both will build your apex and strength, but it’s just the product, both are structured. Gel bottle products are vegan friendly and I prefer those. When people have that burning or bubbling sensation around their nails that’s actually skin sensitivity. Hema content is the amount of actives that harden the nails within a product,” says Doan.

The reason why acrylics can make your nails feel sore? The products have high hema content. “When you go to a chop-shop nail salon, they don’t use an acid free primer. And because your nails are porous, the acid is eating away at the primer. That’s why you’ll feel sensitivity,” says Doan.

A structured manicure is much safer for your nails and nail health. Plus, it still gives the enhancement you’re after in longer nails (think gel extensions), and you can shape differently from your actual nails.

Structured Gel Manicure Step-by-Step

First things first, if you’re going for this type of manicure service, prepare to be at the salon for a good amount of time. Your nail tech is basically building each of your nails, and it takes a bit of time to build up these free edges for the ultimate nail extensions

1. Cuticle Care

As always, you can expect your nail technician to give your cuticles the TLC they deserve. After pushing them back and giving your cuticles a little trim, they will then file your nail plates so the gel can adhere well.

2. File Nails to Desired Shape

After cleaning up your cuticles, all of your nails will then be filed into whichever shape you desire. A rubber base gel is then applied. This is what creates that strong apex Christine mentioned. Your nail will be able to safely grow out and breakage will not occur. “There’s so many techniques. Somebody may use a different primer which adds a volumizing effect. Personally, I sometimes use two to three different structured gel polishes to achieve the look I want,” says Doan.

3. Decide If You Need Extensions

If your nails are short, you may want to add extra length to them. Your nail artist will likely use a foil placed under the free edge of your nail so they can build the length up and out. Once done, your nails will be cured under the LED light. Sometimes nail artists will use a little plastic nail tip to create the extension. To seal it, they’ll apply a gel nail polish coat to create a seamless blend. Steps 2 and 3 take the longest for your nail tech to get things just right.

4. Nail Art & Topcoat

Ready to seal the deal? Your nail artist will finish your structured gel manicure with whichever nail art (or solid nail polish color) you wish to have. Once done, a top coat will be applied and your manicure will be finished!

The Cost of a Structured Gel Manicure

Christine felt it was important to detail that you’re always paying for the experience and for the quality of the products used. “You can pay as little as $30 or in the $1000s. If you live in NY or LA, you can expect to pay $300-$400 for quality products to be used on your nails and intricate nail art. For a plain color, probably around $200-$250, but it does vary,” says Doan.

She went on to note, she knows how to create the correct apex for certain nail shapes to make them look their best. But, that comes with her many years of experience. As always, do research on your salon and what they offer. As well as their technicians and their work.

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