Gel vs. Acrylic Nails: Which Faux Manicure Is Right for You?

First things first: What’s the difference between acrylics and gels?

The goal with both types of fake nails is to add length and strength, and to create a more even shape. Their differences come down to what they are actually made of, and how they’re applied. “Acrylics start as a separate liquid and powder that, when combined, start a chemical reaction that hardens the product,” explains Sharp. This chemical reaction creates a polymer, which is then applied to the nail while it’s wet, shaped to create the desired shape, and then hardened as it dries. Acrylic base also, famously, has a pretty strong odor while being applied.

Gel, on the other hand, does not need to be mixed—but it’s still a two-step process. “Gel is a fluid product that is hardened or cured when exposed to UV light,” says Sharp. The process is similar to getting a standard gel manicure—but rather than simply painting on polish, this gel is shaped past the tip of the natural nail to add length. And fair warning if your nail salon is offering a third option: They may be giving you a fancy name for a dip powder mani in order to upcharge. “Some salons offer powdered gel nails, which is an oxymoron,” clarifies Sharp. “It’s either liquid and powder or gel.”

What about those ultra-long, talon nails all over Instagram? They are likely the result of nail extensions, which can be made from gels or acrylics. “Both acrylic and gel can be used to add length to nails by either gluing a tip on the natural nail and covering it with the product or sculpting the product over a form,” says Sharp.

Which is easier to remove?

Simply put, both require some more effort than your basic nail polish remover—ideally, at the hands of a skilled manicurist. One downside to gels is that the removal process tends to be a bit more intensive. “Most gel polish brands require that you file the top coat off before soaking for about 15 minutes.” Acrylics also require a bit of extra effort to take off safely. “Acrylics are usually thinned down using an electric file and then soaked in acetone for 20-30 minutes,” says Sharp.

No matter which type of nail you choose, remember these four simple words: Don’t. Pick. Them. Off. Not only will doing so harm your nail beds (and hurt!) but it will also make it more difficult for your next manicure. “You need to have a good foundation for nail coating to properly adhere. If the natural nail is ruined it is hard to get the acrylics or gel to hold,” says Sharp. “Nothing will fix it but time to let the nails breathe, a.k.a. grow out.”

Which lasts longer?

Although they may not chip like regular manicures do, both acrylics and gels have their own challenges when it comes to maintenance. If you don’t want to deal with removing your faux nails, you might opt for acrylics as you have the option to just get a fill, a.k.a. added polymer where the nail has grown in, rather than fully removing the nails and starting fresh. According to Sharp, the average time for a fill on acrylics is 2-3 weeks, while the time between gels is about two weeks. But keep in mind, “this all depends on how fast your nails grow,” reminds Sharp.

Is one safer than the other? 

“When regularly applied and removed by a skilled technician, natural nails should not suffer any damage from acrylics or gels,” says Sharp. Still, there are a few things to be aware of ahead of time. “The problems for the consumer come in when the techs over-file during removal, or if the nail is applied incorrectly and lifting causes the natural nail to flake,” she explains. There are some potential cuticle concerns as well. “Consumers can develop product allergies if their technician is not careful to keep the product off the skin surrounding the nails,” Sharp says, adding that one of the most frequent issues is contact dermatitis, or skin rash.

For acrylics, the true safety issues apply to the nail technicians. “Acrylics have to be finished and shaped with a file which creates a lot of microfine plastic dust,” Sharp says, adding that the dust can settle in the lungs. “Proper source capture ventilation systems help with the dust but many salons do not utilize these systems as they are very expensive and take up a lot of space.” The smell of acrylics can also lead to headaches and other ailments. “Most techs can’t smell it after a while—you go nose blind to it,” Sharp adds.

Due to the health risks for technicians, some nail salons only offer gel extensions. However, there is a small risk associated with the UV lamps. “The UV rays used in nail lights are relatively low-grade,” explains Sharp. “Clients’ hands are likely to be exposed to more UV while driving their cars than what they can expect to receive from UV nail services.” She also notes that the bulbs used for gel nails emit UVA light, with little or no UVB rays, which research has shown are more likely to cause skin cancer.

Whether you go the acrylic or gel route, the most important thing you can do ahead of time is research. Both methods can be game-changing to your nail routine, but only if they’re done correctly. Look for salons where safety for customers and technicians is a priority, and check their Instagram feed for rave reviews and nail looks you love—like hair, it’s never a bad idea to go in with your inspiration handy. Next stop: the Instagrammable, clickable, long nails of your dreams.

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