Everyone's Talking About Japanese Manicures—Here's Why



Brittany Leitner


Courtesy of Peach Bling
Any beauty lover knows: having your nails done is one of the easiest ways to feel put together. It’s also one of the more affordable ways to treat yourself every once in a while (as opposed to a big designer bag or clothing splurge). With nail trends constantly changing, though, it can be tough to keep up with everything the TikTok beauty verse is talking about when it comes to polish and manicure styles.
First came the clean girl nail aesthetic, and then, with the revival of early 2000s nostalgia, more bold and bright patterns came into focus. And now, nail trends aren’t just dictating nail color and design choices, but rather a whole new type of manicure altogether.
Remember Russian manicures, where electronic files are used on both the nail surface and cuticle to create a clean-cut effect? Well, move over, because a new trend is here: Japanese manicures. We spoke with Japanese manicure expert Sandra Wei to find out everything you need to know about the Japanese manicure trend.
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MEET THE EXPERT
Sandra Wei is the founder of Peach Bling nail salon in New York City and a Japanese manicure expert.
What Is a Japanese Manicure?
According to Wei, “a Japanese-style manicure is a highly detailed approach to nail care that focuses on the health, strength, and structure of the natural nail, while still creating a refined and polished finish.” But of course, it gets even more niche than that.
There are actually two approaches worth distinguishing. Traditional Japanese manicures typically focus on conditioning and buffing the natural nail to a glossy finish without colored polish. Japanese gel manicures, like the structured technique offered at Peach Bling, use gel products to build and maintain a supportive overlay on the natural nail.
“Rather than simply applying gel color over the natural nail, we use hard gel to carefully build a clear apex — a subtle structure that reinforces the nail and provides additional strength and support,” explains Wei. “This helps protect the natural nails as they grow, making them less prone to bending, chipping, or breaking.”
For Japanese gel manicures, the removal process is a bit different than traditional manicures. “When a client is ready for a new color or design, we file off the previous color rather than repeatedly removing the entire gel structure or filing down the natural nail,” explains Wei. That way, the structure stays in place. “Your natural nails remain protected. Over time, this creates a consistent protective layer that allows the natural nails underneath to continue growing with added strength and support,” she adds.
How Long Does a Japanese Gel Manicure Last?
Because salons that specialize in Japanese manicures, like Peach Bling, leave a protective layer of gel on the natural nail, it can help extend the life of polish, and help natural nails grow.
“With proper care, a structured gel manicure typically lasts around three to four weeks, depending on nail growth, lifestyle, and everyday wear,” explains Wei. The formula chosen in the polishes also helps nails grow. “We carefully select professional Japanese gel products with nail and skin sensitivity in mind, including HEMA- and TPO-free formulas,” adds Wei. HEMA stands for hydroxyethyl methacrylate, which some salon-goers have found irritating. TPO stands for trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide, which is classified as a reproductive toxin.
Japanese vs. Russian Manicures What's the Difference?
Simply put? “Russian manicures are particularly recognized for their detailed cuticle work, while our Japanese structured gel manicure emphasizes gentle cuticle care, balanced structure, natural nail protection, and long-term support for healthy-looking nail growth,” explains Wei.
Russian manicures use a gentle electronic file to remove skin around the cuticle more deeply, whereas, according to Wei, Japanese manicures are a bit more gentle around the cuticle area.
“Rather than simply focusing on the surface appearance, our Japanese structured gel technique builds and maintains a supportive structure over the natural nail,” explains Wei. “When it’s time for a new look, we file off the color and rebalance the existing structure as needed instead of unnecessarily removing everything from the natural nail. Both techniques require skill and precision, but their priorities are different. “
How Do You Remove Japanese Gel Manicures?
There is a key difference here between Japanese gel manicures and American gel manicures. For one, American gel manicures remove all of the products that were applied to the nail and get down to the natural bare nail in its entirety. In Japanese gel removal, technicians combine nail polish remover with an e-file, but leave a thin layer of gel base to protect the natural nail from excessive filing.
If you’ve ever been left with divots or ridges from an excessive file, this might be a great alternative for you.
Are Japanese Manicures Worth It?
If you’re going to continue to get repeated gel manicures for the hopes of growing your natural nails, a Japanese manicure can be a great place to start. Since a protective layer of gel is left on the natural nail even during the polish change-up process, it ensures e-files don’t go down to the nail bed to thin and weaken natural nails.
Ingredient selection is also a big focus of Japanese manicures, since most salons (make sure to double check when booking your appointment at your local salon) use HEMA- and TPO-free polish formulas. If you’re looking for a non-toxic way to get your manicure to last up to four weeks, Japanese gel manicures could be worth a try.
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